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Entries in Shopkeeper (57)

Wednesday
Feb152012

David Hart & Co. 

There is a shifting of the Earth’s core in 2012; traditional winds are swirling in the opposite direction. No, the Mayan prophecies have not obliterated our planet. The change has come within the confines of men’s fashion.

Case in point: Not even a decade ago, hip hop culture was spilling into every facet of society, from clothing to mindset. Look at the NBA, where the greatest basketball players in the world were doing their part of bringing this way of life to the mainstream via ESPN, the only appropriate four letter word in a man’s vocabulary. It was a fresh and crisp aesthetic, certainly not a passing fancy, but at the time, no one could imagine a pocket square would ever be an essential piece of the post-game interview. Then it happened, the perfect storm of old school panache, modern day swagger and future time sensibility. A world where Kanye West and a seasoned Wall Street legend might share the same Scottish Tartan, where the hand crafted men’s accoutrements of centuries-old Italy find their way to the pages of GQ draped on the body of a hardcourt icon from the Southern tip of Chicago.

We can thank the maestro David Hart.

Hart, namesake of David Hart & Co., personally hand crafts neckties from his NYC base. Using the finest linens, wool, cotton and luxury silk, all immaculately detailed pieces are hand slip-stitched and tailored for the distinguished gentleman of any background. Whether the vibrant and rich colors of the Scotsman, the cool factor of a genuine Japanese selvedge denim tie or the effortlessly timeless John Drake bow tie, Hart has provided the men’s couture landscape with items that are simply essential, regardless if the wearer listens to Wiz Khalifa on an iPod, the Rolling Stones on cassette or Sinatra on vinyl.

Exquisite taste is a universal thing.

Wednesday
Feb082012

Nat Sherman 

Still maintaining a flagship store on a posh flange of 42nd Street, just off of 5th Avenue, Nat Sherman tobacconist remains a solid purveyor of high end cigars, cigarettes, and other tobacco related products. Legend has that Nat Sherman, a speakeasy proprietor of Jay Gatsby proportion, parlayed a tobacco shop procured as a means of repayment of some gambling debts. He later procured the prime Manhattan real estate location by means of loaning struggling real estate developer Abe Gubertz the funds needed to complete a 38 story building on Broadway. In a story endemic to the narrative of America, Nat Sherman, the tobacco retailer was born.

Image, salociNil

Today, Nat Sherman distributes its high end cigars and cigarettes around the world, to be proudly displayed in tobacco shops, and private humidors – ostentatiously brought out, and conversed over. The regal emblem of the company: two Indian chiefs – facing opposite directions, looking out upon the world – a large clock between them. The 42nd Street store features a lofty retail lobby, ensconced in wood, evocative perhaps of a library. The books here, however, are cylindrical rows of brown torpedoes. Shaped, and faced, and angled in their splayed boxes. Gotham 1400s. Hobarts. Metropolitans. Omertas. Larrañagas. Glass cases remind the shoppers of a fine jeweler, or numismatic dealer.

Perhaps the most iconic of the Nat Sherman collection remains the Fantasia lights. These gold tipped, charcoal filtered cigarettes feature a colored paper, giving the cigarettes an almost uncanny crayon like appearance. The Fantasia light sets a paragon in the market of luxury brands of cigarette manufacture; a sort of Louis Vuitton of smokes.

Thursday
Feb022012

Schwab's Pharmacy

“After that, I drove down to headquarters. That’s the way a lot of us think about Schwab’s. Kind of a combination office, coffee klatch and waiting room. Waiting, waiting for the gravy train.”
-William Holden as screenwriter Joe Gillis, upon facing rejection in the major motion picture Sunset Boulevard

When most of us envision a pharmacy, we recall aisles upon aisles of magic weight loss pills and periodicals, a blood pressure machine, cheap plastic toys and lines queued with the elderly. In the 1930’s, 40’s, and 50’s, one particular drug store was the center of Hollywood. Simply, it was headquarters.

Schwab’s Pharmacy was its own monster. Tinsel town legend dictates that gorgeous sweater queen Lana Turner was discovered here. This tale is one in a million. 8024 Sunset Boulevard was a who’s who of industry players, a venue to fill prescriptions, grab an ice cream cone, feast on a light dinner, and solidify blockbuster deals that would lead to cinema gold. On any given night, a trip to pick up aspirin for that nagging headache would yield a glimpse at the likes of Judy Garland, Ronald Reagan, and the Marx Brothers talking shop. Charlie Chaplin was a notorious pinball machine hustler, while future leading lady Ava Gardner poured sodas behind the counter for the entertainment elite. The titanic film “The Wizard of Oz” might have gone down in the annals of motion picture history as an also ran if not for the enigmatic anthem “Somewhere over the Rainbow”-quickly composed on the famous countertops of Schwab’s Pharmacy. F.Scott Fitzgerald suffered a heart attack (fortunately amidst a plethora of meds) inside the pharmacy’s hallowed walls, and Marilyn Monroe fed a grandiose appetite for pills though the pharmacist/chefs of Schwab’s.

The behind the scenes brass, arguably more important than their fresh faced and replaceable talents for hire, brokered some of cinema’s greatest collaborations over Coca Cola floats and cheeseburgers. The magical building was the last of its kind, a convergence of wanna be’s, has been’s, and current stars. It was a place where a misplaced drama club performer from a small town in Iowa could light Mickey Rooney’s Lucky Strike, where James Dean might seek the opinion of a stock boy strategically placing industry rags near the checkout lane.

8024 Sunset has been demolished and rebuilt several times, reborn as a multiplex and a shopping center to name a few. Nothing has lived up to the iconoclast known as Schwab’s Pharmacy, but it is not their fault, as nothing possibly could. Hollywood collectors treasure many things; Dorothy’s ruby red slippers, Rocky Balboa’s American flag inspired trunks, Luke Skywalker’s light saber- magnificent, all, yet none can touch the almost biblical rolodex that once was within the grasp of a teenaged soda jerk at Schwab’s.

Saturday
Jan282012

Save Khaki

Save Khaki is a niche boutique in the Big Apple. That niche?

Preppy. And proud of it.

Predominantly khaki, clean and streamlined, Save Khaki caters not only to a specific look, but a mindset. Think traditional workwear meets daily life. And the clothes feel like a second skin, so comfortable and form fitting that the wearer feels as if he was simply born with it. Save Khaki operates with an M.O.-“Less, but better”, which bleeds over into the stylish yet unbothered psyche of their clientele.

With three stores in Gotham, the company has also opened a web store for its flock, and most of Save Khaki’s products are American citizens, another thing we love.

All hail the khaki.

Thursday
Jan262012

Wood & Faulk

When considering the creative explosion of craftsman style, Wichita, Kansas is not the pioneering frontier that brings one's mind to bear. For graphic designer and Wichita native—Matt Pierce—the slow, flat, farming and industry good-life made for a solid upbringing. It was also the foundation for Pierce’s documentation of experiments in style and craft—a.k.a. Wood & Faulk.

What began on the Wichita streets of Woodrow and Faulkner, Pierce was studious in the art of craftsmanship. Always the tinkerer and customizer, his early forays into building crossed several mediums. Pierce’s uncle taught him how to build car engines. On commission, he worked on furniture. He refined his skills also working on homes. For Pierce it was never a business. He would take jobs simply for the pleasure in building.

Any sum obtained through his endeavors, were invested in the purchase of well-made tools—each new building interest allowing him to accumulate a garage full.

After Pierce migrated to Portland, Oregon, he initially rented but later purchased a home due to the confines of a small shop space. He bought an old house and again embraced tinkering through home repair. Eventually he began publishing the progress of his efforts through pictures via the popular gallery service, Flickr.

Friends and fellow creative’s took notice and encouraged Pierce to share on a personal site of his own, which quickly evolved into Wood & Faulk, his “Documentation of experiments, style, and craft.”

Since the creation of Wood & Faulk, Pierce has been building in other ways—community—as a natural, organic evolution of his sharing efforts. His experiments also feature a small, carefully crafted range of products including shop-wear, bags, and leather goods.

We asked about the societal trend towards fulfillment through do-it-yourself, handmade creativity, and Pierce noted that he believes in the power of craftsmanship and trusts it is not a passing fad. “We had gotten away from build something yourself and taking pride in it. If you do it right, it lasts a long time. Do it right. Spend the dollars and it will last a whole lot longer. It is better with effort.”

The notion of Made in America also resonates with Pierce. “Not in a blinding patriotic way, however. No matter where things are made, you must look for the quality of the craft. We have seen wondering Made in America companies that have done things horribly. It should really stand for something good and strong. It should benefit the consumers that are buying things.”

Looking at Wood & Faulk, it is clear that Pierce looks at Made in America with the fondness of timeless quality. “You can’t take it at face value these days. Consumers must look beyond the Made in America stamp. Go beyond the advertising. Only then can you decide if it is worth the investment.”

Wood & Faulk is built on exposing ideas and opening dialog with people who desire to create or those who want to have more lasting creations. Pierce remains encouraged about the prospect of Wood & Faulk’s impact in the future as well. “It is about sharing ideas and I have been excited about how well mine have been received.”

Photography by Lisa Warninger.

http://www.woodandfaulk.com/

Wednesday
Jan182012

JJ Hat Center

There is a standard of bias and prejudice in the world, and for once it has merit. This world, of course, is the realm of headwear.

A hat is not just a hat. Show up to a black tie affair in a tattered Yankees ballcap and prepare to have the red carpet pulled beneath you. Arrive at a white table cloth restaurant with a stunning woman and a bandanna, go home with take out and a lonely couch. Since 1911, JJ Hat Center has steered aspiring distinguished gentlemen away from such societal and fashion faux pas.

They are New York's senior experts, recognized globally as one of the most esteemed and renowned hat boutiques. For 101 years, the Gotham based purveyor of the classics has served generations, from nervous novices to well-versed veterans. The precise and polished art of the fedora, pork pie, beret and cap is not merely a job for the gentlemen at JJ Hat Center-it is a lifestyle. They will teach you the history behind each hat, as well as the proper care and ideal style. And, inadvertently, they will teach you Sinatra-like swagger.

And for that, JJ Hat Center … we tip our cap to you.

Wednesday
Jan042012

Kiehl's 

Cosmetics.

Founded in 1851 by John Kiehl, Kiehl's began as an apothecary in the East Village of New York City. Throughout nearly two centuries, Kiehl’s has morphed into a destination for lotions and cosmetics, but with a twist; up to 40% of its clientele are men. It is an all-sexes approach to marketing that the company has managed to achieve this desired demographic. Well educated clerks, clad in lab coats, provide expert advice to an already hip and authentic product. Vintage Clark Gable motorcycles provide the motif at Kiehls’ flagship location, while fashionista’s freely peruse the skin health lines at such esteemed department stores as Barney’s and Saks. Though essentially providing the same paradigm altering products, the bow upon which the box is wrapped makes the straightforward and universally needed cosmetics accessible to all.

While famous for a more- than- generous sampling policy, Kiehl’s operates as a philanthropic entity, a large part of its culture. Over forty years ago, the company introduced its “Mission of Kiehl’s”, which was a directive to create a better world for all of its citizens. With a heavy focus on AIDS research, environmentalism and children’s causes, Kiehl’s remains as committed to the health of our communities as they do to their client’s skin and their own bottom line.

Yet at its simplest, Kiehl’s has given a gift to the universe that might once have been deemed impossible; a product, finally, that a husband and wife can finally share.

Gift giving just got easier.

Wednesday
Dec142011

The Perish Trust 

There is a reason why nostalgia resonates with people. Maybe it is selective memory, or perhaps the simplicity of yesteryear Americana truly is greater than today’s often frenzied marketplace. Whatever the reason, the bond between our past and present is strong, and in a San Francisco gallery shop, the machine age lives on.

The Perish Trust is more than a boutique. It is a carefully curated collection of vintage wonderments and retro knick-knacks; imagine a time portal for Hemingway’s accoutrements. In its diminutive space, centuries of history are feathered from wall to wall, eclectic and diverse pieces that run the gamut from taxidermy to typewriters, old-world maps to industrial chains, eccentric jewelry to antique lighting fixtures. The Perish Trust even has a showroom, while also serving as a Warby Parker eyewear haven.

As America picks itself up by its bootstraps and claws its way out of the economic mess, we do so with the grit and determination of our forefathers. At The Perish Trust, they have taken it a step further, powering forth upon the objects our elders used to build our great nation.

And at the end of the day, there is a comfort in owning something that has witnessed generations of change while staying true to its own unique form. Whatever the item might be, it is likely for sale at The Perish Trust.

Friday
Dec092011

Warby Parker

Jack Kerouac changed the way we see the written word. In a smaller dose, he might just be changing the way we see, period.

Warby Parker as a name stems from a collaboration of characters from the great writer’s earlier works. Warby Parker as a company is the revolutionary eyewear collaboration between a tight-knit quartet of friends, hell-bent on creating an alternative to the overpriced and drab eyewear market. Turned off by what they perceived as artificial costs from large companies taking advantage of consumers with nowhere else to turn, the gang at Warby Parker has unveiled a collection of prescription lenses that are designed with a timeless flair and the finest of customizations. Essentially, the eyewear, paired next to a traditionally high end brand, either matches or surpasses the quality and pleasing aesthetic, while costing the consumer substantially less. It is a pricing point technique that has won Warby Parker a growing legion of devotees.

When not saving its loyalists money, Warby Parker is saving the eye health of those who need it the most. Staunch believers in “eyewear with a purpose”, the company strongly believes that the right to see is not only for the fortunate. With millions of people globally bereft of proper vision care, Warby Parker seeks to eradicate the problem by partnering with renowned non-profits to deliver a pair of glasses to someone in need for every pair that they sell.

Kerouac wrote “The Road Less Traveled”, another nod to the literary giant that Warby Parker seems to have followed. For a company that plies its trade in the field of sight, Warby Parker’s greatest contribution to the commerce and philanthropic worlds just might be its vision.

Images Gabriel Boone Photography

Wednesday
Nov022011

Tomcats Barbershop

If someone were to pour the spirits of Von Dutch and Elvis Presley into a shaker, add a dash of beer and a shot of old school CBGB’s, and then mix it all together, what would come out of the strainer? The answer is a big, heaping glass of Tomcats Barbershop.

Tomcats Barbershop, in the heart of Greenpoint, Brooklyn, is the quintessential nod to Rock and Roll barbering. With a focus on the classics (pompadours, blade cuts, rockabilly, and so on), Tomcats is a bastion of nostalgia and culture. In one fell swoop, patrons of local art, beer, muscle car pin- striping and effortlessly cool cuts can come together to celebrate the craft of manhood.

The only thing missing for the style-conscious gentleman is a pin-up girl on his arm. After a session in the chair of one of Tomcats Barbershop’s maestros, a fella certainly helps his chances.

The only thing missing for the style-conscious gentleman is a pin-up girl on his arm. After a session in the chair of one of Tomcats Barbershop’s maestros, a fella certainly helps his chances.

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